By Prabhat Kanti Paul
Each and every time I reach Nartiang I feel something new, something supernatural. It was March 1980; I first reached Nartiang on a Government Job, transferred from Cherrapunjee and posted as Sectional Officer, in charge of construction and maintenance of Jowai Nartiang Kdiap Khanduli Road including reconnaissance, survey and investigation of new roads etc. Originally the jurisdiction was extended up to Baithalangsu after division of Assam into seven states Baithalangsu fell in Assam, Karbianglong District in the year 1971.
After division of Bengal and there were further division of the country in the year 1947. This region and Jaintia Elaka was divided and detached socially, culturally and politically from its other part- Jaintiapur plains. This caused great disaster in every sphere of life except some political gain for few. The people lost their written documents, script and scriptures. The myth, hymn and songs the people of Nartiang used to sing with divine rhythm, beating sacred instruments khool and kartal, lost its words and lyric. The rites and rituals remained the same which were part of spiritual practice of the people since time immemorial. Thus the past history, script and scriptures related to monoliths at Nartiang were lost.
During Kingship, the Kings from plains used to come here on the hills during summer and lived here till Autumn Festival. During this period the monolith premises used to be cleaned well since celebration of Durga Puja or Autumn Festival starts from here more than two fortnights before the Puja Days.
The ‘Biryampa Masi, pond for swimming or bathing of cows; ‘Monkoi Tok’, and ‘Umtisong’ water ponds and also the ‘iew Mulong’, religious and ancient bazaar close to Mawbynna are the testimony of the ancient history since barter system.
The relics of temples and stone sculpture at Syndai which are assessed to be curbed during 700 – 1200 A.D., which has spiritual relation with Nartiang linked with bridle path or footpath are testimony of civilization since time immemorial. The period of erecting monoliths at Nartiang are much before than the stone sculpture at Syndai which is carved by Chiseling.
Smelting of iron and making instrument was known by the people of Nartiang. The remains of slag iron etc are the testimony. The age of this is not known. This is much later than Stone Age. Some iron gun barrels are preserved in the Shiva (Bhairab Kramadhiswar) temple on the peak of the village.
The eight metalled or alloy idols of Goddess and other idols are testimony of idol worship at Nartiang. This period is before Mughals. They came here time and again and looted, at last damaged and destroyed the places of worship.
The age of installation of ‘Silas’ or stone images of God and Goddess in the temples are before the installation of metalled images and are much later to erection of monoliths.
Monoliths at Nartiang are testimony of Stone Age and early civilized society of Nartiang. Such monolith is spread from these foot hills to the Brahmaputra river bank on the North. Orientation of monolith at Nartiang is unique and are erected on a lone high land surrounded by high hills all round. The orientation is in rows and in groups. High and low upright stones of different sizes are erected crumbling partially the flat stone, circular or oval set on stone supports like table, one or more in number. Some says that vertical stones are male stone and flat stones are female stone. This is known as Megalithic culture of pre historic age.
The monoliths at Nartiang are like “dolmens and menhirs, having relevance of the matrilineal system of society. The tallest member in the middle representing the primordial maternal uncle, two accompanying male stones on each sides and the table or dolmen stone, tying at the feet of the upright stones, representing female progenitress of the clan associated mainly of cremation rites and keeping the bones in a cyst” (u Sumar Singh Sawian).
People of Nartiang believe in the sanctity of the monoliths. They maintained it undisturbed. Without any cause they do not go through these. Only on market day they prefer to go through it. The local market is close to it. The market functioned once is eight days i.e. Market cycle. The day is named Mulong and the market is Їew Mulong. Mulong is first day of the cycle or week; the other days are Musiang, Muhsai, Pyngkat, Hat, Thymbling and Mukso, which is rare in the world. On market day the Dan and officials of Doloiship collect ‘dan’ or ‘bestowal’ from the seller or trader. After collection of ‘dan’ all gather on a particular flat stone, discuss on important matter related to doloiship. After the meeting all go to their respective works. The ‘Dan’ then carries the collected materials to the temple and keeps those in the temple. The priest of the temple receive these with due sanctity with these the Goddess is served throughout the market cycle till next market day. In Jaintia Hills including Khasi Hills, this is the only market where the bestowals from the traders are used for divine service to the Mother.
From these monoliths, on a market day starts Autumn Festival Durga Puja 30 – 40 days before Puja Day. On this day Doloi, Pator, Dan, and all other gather here and perform rites and rituals, pray to the forefathers and the almighty for performance of the auspicious occasion. Then the Mother is welcomed beating drums etc. The beating of drums starts after blank firing from the gun. Firing gun is done to drive way the evils and evil spirits before performance of the divine rites and rituals.
The stone garden of Nartiang has similarity with the stone garden on ‘Hinges’ at Scotland. Many research Scholars has worked on the Hinges of Scotland. No remarkable study has yet been done on Hinges of Nartiang. It is in the book of Archeological Department of India. After a gap of centuries now people from far and near come here to visit as tourist.
5000 years old step pyramid bears the then socio cultural history of Egypt. It was built by King Djoser or Zoser in 27 B.C. surrounding this, Imhootep built a building of 24 compartments in which marble stone idols and other sculptures are made. It symbolized the image of the Kingdom, rites and rituals of life and life hereafter. This is the first monument of the world built up with marble stone. The monument is one of the Seven Wonders of the World better known as “Giza Pyramid”. It was build around 4500 years ago by King Khuphu or Riospher. His mummified mortal body was kept inside the pyramid. Plenty of vegetables, corn, gold, silver, utensils, and throne etc. everything were kept inside for his use, because, death is merely a leisure period between the present and the subsequent life. Kings, as soon as they sat on the throne started establishing his final shelter.
That’s why in the ancient history of eight there is so much arrangement concerning the death. Arrangements for the Kings were elaborate, because they become equipotent to God after death. The duty of the subjects was to ease the last journey of the King and see that he achieves Godhead to maintain the continuity of life of the subjects was the duty of the dead King. Pyramid means ‘house of eternity’ that is shelter for the eternal soul. (Ref. Udbodhan Agrahyan 1423 BE, Neel Noder Pare, Lipika Dey)
There are many dolmen and menhir such as Mawbynna, Mawkit, Mawpud, Mawsing etc. spread all over Khasi Hills and Jaintia Hills. These are also seen in some other parts where other tribes of similar origin lived in the past. Mawsing or Dolmen is set on stone supports like table under which the bone of the deceased after funeral is kept in a cistern. Death anniversary of the deceased is observed here in remembrance and honour of the deceased’s soul and eatables are offered observing rituals.
The monolith on stone garden at Nartiang is similar to dolmen and menhir. One or more menhir erected by the side of one or more dolmens comprising a cluster. The biggest erected stone is of size 27 ft long 6 ft wide and 2ft thick. It is a lone stone and the flat stone is set in front of it is approximately 24 ft in diameter 1ft 3inches thick.. Others are erected and set close to it maintaining distinct difference in rows and groups. This stone garden is prominent than any other stone garden in the vicinity at Nongbah, Jowai, Jarain, Reliang and elsewhere in this region.
Since creation of this stone garden it has remained as it was. No modification, beautification or improvement is done. Deformation due to earthquake or erosion etc did not also occur. This is considered to be a vast united effort of the people of the area. Nothing is known about the name of the King during whose rule these were erected or the age of erection, only the clan of the strongman “Phlangki” is known. Except on market day meeting, rites and rituals before Sri Durga Puja no other rites are observed here. The sanctity is strictly maintained.
As people moves now a day from one place to the other, in the past too man used to travel from place to place of the world. Civilization and culture too moved along with them and improved step by step. The age of creation of the stone garden at Nartiang is very old. These were done by cutting or breaking the stone in required sizes. These are not only monuments but also a place of performing crematorial rites for all within a confined place, a sign of equanimity; variation was only in size and shape. The biggest pair is most probably for the King and the Queen. The Egyptian Pyramids are built by setting stones one above the other with the technique considering transmission of load and stability etc. These are improved technology used for building the external abode for the King by the people. They go there to pray for their welfare. There is no pyramid for common people. The technique of erection of these monuments or structure is earliest and erected close to the human habitation. But the pyramids are built away from human habitation, on the sandy desert. People from all over the world go there to see the wonder, where Egyptians use to go to offer Puja, for the preparation of the unknown life beyond death. In front of the pyramid of King Kiospher his son King Kephrin built a temple and an artist curbed a sculpture on a big stone the image of half man and half lion, which has a resemblance of Narasingha, an incarnation of the Lord Vishnu.
Monoliths of Nartiang is the earliest stone sculpture million years old bearing the history of the then civilized society of this region where the memory and eternity of none is excluded. The name and age nothing is inscribed and it will bear the honour of the mass for all the time to come. Only a legendary story prevails narrating the divine power of the people of bringing the heavy stones pulled by pumkin creeper to erect and set them, is amazing.
On the approach road to the stone garden from the village, there is a stone slab culvert of 10 spans which is used to cross while going to perform rites and rituals on either bank of the stream. Such stone culverts are seen on Jowai Jarain Syndai Muktapur Jaintiapur bridle path. This bridle path is contemporary to the stone sculptures of earlier period. Civilization moved through this bridle path from hills to plains and vice versa but is now disrupted by division of the country.
The faith and belief of the people of Nartiang is eternal, traditional and Vedic. The influence of Islam is very faint. Innumerable Churches are built of different denomination throughout the area. Hence the people are reluctant to come to the temple any more to take part in the rites and rituals during special occasions. However the members of the governing body of the sacred place are very sincere in their efforts to maintain the purity and holiness of the place.
The eternal faith and beliefs of the people of Nartiang is million years old. The legend of the “Lumsohpet Bneng”, Golden Ladder connecting heaven and earth, sixteen clan, disruption of the ‘Ladder’ forcing ‘Nine’ clan to remain in the heaven and ‘Seven’ clan remained on the earth, the story of creation of mankind and its evolution, conception of God, heaven and earth is amazing. All these are testimony of faith and belief of the people. The annual rites and rituals observed here are – rearranging the pieces of stone on the altar or platform, sanctification of the place, washing and cleaning by pouring water, offering and sprinkling sanctified water from different sources, pouring of rice wine, spreading of husked rice grain, Puja and prayer by the priest for peace, prosperity and affluence of the land and people including peace for the spirits of the fore fathers wherever they are or in whatever form they are. All these are done with due sanctity, community prayer and oblation is done by the devotees. After oblation some grain is taken home as grace of the Almighty for other members in the family.
People of Nartiang and India believe in two distinct forms of a human being, ‘Body’ and ‘Soul’. After death the body remains on the earth, mingle with five basic elements from which the body was formed and the soul leaves the body for its eternal journey or mingle with the super soul.
The tale, story and belief, existence and look of ‘Mabsein Barwai’ at Shangpung, Jaintia Hills is like Ananta Nag or Sesha Nag as depicted in Sri Sri Chandi, Couch of Lord Vishnu appeared during creation of this earth is undoubtedly the oldest and have a relevance with Lum Sohpet Bneng.
Pronoy Roy, Director NDTV, reading the book ‘Heritage and Tradition’ related to Nartiang, uploaded in internet the uniquenss of Nartiang and invited votes for Nartiang by logging on www.com7wonder of India North Eastern State Category, (Shillong Times 10.01.2009).
The stone garden or Kper Mawbynna finds mention in the book published by Archeological Department of the Government of India. It is also acknowledged as a place of attraction for visitors and tourists. Initiatives have already been taken to improve and upgrade this tourist site.
Nartiang is not only a place of attraction for tourists for its historical background but also a holy place of pilgrimage to pay obeisance to ‘Devi Jayantee’, one of the 51 sacred sites spread over from Himalayas to Srilanka, Meghalaya to Pakistan. Here one can also have a glimpse of the ancient socio-cultural life of the people of North Eastern region.
The author visited this holy place on 11th October 2016, the auspicious day pf Bijoya Dasami or Dassera. Many dignitaries and commoners from the villages located around the place, all well dressed in their traditional attires, and also gathered there. Honourable V. Sahnmuganathan, Governor of Meghalaya, Swami Anuragananda, Secretary Ramakrishna Mission, Cherrapunjee, Shri Vincent H Pala, Member of Parliament, Shri Sngewbhalang Dhar, Local MLA and many others paid their obeisance to the Goddess. The local authorities thanked the gathering for their assemblage at the sacred temple of “Maa Jayantee Mandir Nartiang”, and requested them to help them in redeeming its lost identity. Honourable Governor, Local Member of Parliament and Legislative Assembly, all expressed their willingness to improve and upgrade the holy place Nartiang like other holy places in the region and the country.